A Guide to Inti Raymi in Cusco
Inti Raymi, also known as the Festival of the Sun, is an important traditional festival in Cusco. It honors the Incan sun god, Inti, and celebrates the winter solstice in the Southern Hemisphere (the shortest day of the year, and the rebirth of the sun).
I had met a bunch of amazing people on the O-Trek in Patagonia back in March, and we were all planning to be in Cusco in late June, so we decided to all meet up again and share an Airbnb over the celebrations of Inti Raymi.. It takes place on June 24th, so I decided to arrive on June 23rd and book my Salkantay hike for 3 days later - enough time to recover after what would be a very massive day!
23 June - The Eve of Inti Raymi
Celebrations had already kicked off on June 23rd. This day is known as “Vispera de Inti Raymi” (The Eve of Inti Raymi) and various events are held across the city.
We wandered down to Plaza de Armas, which was buzzing with crowds of people, colourful flags and a huge stage set up. There was a parade around the square, with performances by dance groups in vibrant traditional costumes, dancing to Andean music. It was a hot day, in the mid-20s (celcius), and the costumes were heavy and flamboyant - I am surprised they had the energy to dance!. There were also a couple of news crews there filming, and we happened to be behind a presenter from a Peruvian TV network which was quite entertaining to watch him do his work trying to get the dancers to stop and chat and catch up with their group after.
24 June - Inti Raymi
Each year, the festival follows a specific schedule of events, that crowds flock to by the thousands. If you want to view any of these events, get to the location at least an hour early if you want to be able to see anything! There are a lot of people renting little stools or chairs you can stand on for PEN5-PEN10 (AUD$2-$4/USD$1.35/USD$1.70), which 90% of locals pay for, so you really do have to get one so they aren’t towering over you all around.
Note: They don’t necessarily stick to their advertised schedules, sometimes they start early!
9:00am - Ceremony at Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun)
Location: Qorikancha, in the heart of Cusco.
The day begins at the most important and sacred temple of the Inca Empire - Qorikancha. This temple is dedicated to the sun god, Inti, which is why this is the chosen location to start the ceremony. The emperor (known as Sapa Inca) and others gather here for a reenactment of the Inca rituals. There are offerings to Pachamama (mother nature) and the sun. Dancers and musicians perform traditional Andean songs.
11:00am - Procession to the Plaza de Armas
Location: Plaza de Armas in the city centre
The next part of the day is the lively and colourful procession to Plaza de Armas. The Sapa Inca is dressed in his royal attire of a golden tunic and feathered headdress, and is carried into Plaza de Armas on a golden throne.
Other high-ranking members of Incan nobility including his wife, priests and warriors accompany him elaborately dressed in traditional costumes. Andean musicians and dancers lead the way, playing native instruments such as conch shells, pan flutes and drums.
Once the Sapa Inca has stepped down from his throne in the centre of Plaza de Armas, he gives a speech, reenacting the role of the emperor addressing his subjects. This symbolic speech represents the connection between the Inca people and their ruler, and their respect for their gods and nature.
After the speech, more dances are performed and offerings of flowers, cocoa leaves and chicha (a Peruvian drink) are made to Inti and Pachamama.
1:30pm - Main Ceremony at Sacsayhuamán
Location: Sacsayhuamán, an ancient Inca fortress overlooking Cusco.
After a 1.5km walk from Plaza de Armas up to Sacsayhuamán, the crowd gathers and finds a spot to sit on the grassy banks, hoping to catch a view of the main ceremony.
The Sapa Inca, surrounded by hundreds of actors in Incan costumes, takes the stage and performs an elaborate ritual, offering thanks to the sun god and performing symbolic sacrifices.
There is more music, dance, and ceremonial acts that reenact the original Inti Raymi rituals, including offerings to Inti and blessings for prosperity to a backdrop of chanting, drumming, and conch shell sounds.
4:00pm - Festival Conclusion
Location: Sacsayhuamán
The ceremony concludes with the Sapa Inca giving his final blessing and bidding farewell to the sun, and the day-long celebration comes to a close.
Preparing for the Day:
One of the best spots to watch the ceremony at Plaza de Armas is at one of the restaurant balconies surrounding the square, such as Morena Peruvian Kitchen or Mulli. You will need to book a reservation several months in advance to score a table with a prime view!
Take cash to rent a stool or chair, as everyone around you will have one and will be towering over you. There are also vendors selling snacks and drinks.
Aim to get to the location at least an hour prior to secure a spot with a view.
We found it difficult to get from Plaza de Armas to Sacsayhuamán in time to find a spot to watch the main ceremony - we got there half an hour before it was due to start, and we spent the next half hour trying to find somewhere where we could see.
You can buy tickets for the ceremony at Sacsayhuamán, so you can avoid having to hunt for a viewing spot and have a seat in one of the three seating zones, priced accordingly.
Bathrooms are extremely hard to come by. For the ceremony at Plaza de Armas, it was so hard to squish through the crowds to find a restaurant. A lot of them only offered customers their bathrooms, and the McDonalds ones were “accidentally” locked for the day! They had port-a-potties at Sacsayhuamán but the lines were extremely long and they looked like they were in terrible condition.
If you are going as a group, all meet to head in together outside the main square - once you are in Plaza de Armas, it’s near impossible to cut through the crowds and people will not let you pass!
As you are standing outside all day, don’t forget your sunblock! Even with cloud cover it’s very easy to get sunburnt, with the high altitude intensifying the sun.
