Cusco Travel Guide: What to Do, Where to Stay, and Travel Tips
CITY BREAKS
Cusco is, of course, the gateway to Machu Picchu - but I was surprised to discover just how much more it had to offer.
After spending a month up in Huaraz, another hiking hotspot in Peru, we made our way via Lima to Cusco. It was a long journey, with an overnight bus to Lima, an uber from the bus station to the airport, and a long 4.5 hour wait before our flight to Cusco. I had lounge access so was hoping to spend it all in the lounge, but we couldn’t even check in until 3 hours before departure so my lounge time was short (first world problems, I know!).
The flight to Cusco is beautiful, so make sure you get a window seat - I paid the extra $5 or however small amount it was, and it was so worth it!
I was meeting friends that I made on the O-Trek earlier that year, so I went to check into our Airbnb on the outskirts of town. We had planned the trip so we would be there for Inti Raymi, the celebration of the winter solstice and the Inca New Year. I will post an overview of the celebrations in the coming month, but the photo below provides a sneak peak on how beautiful and colourful the town looks for this occasion:
Where I stayed:
We moved around a LOT in Cusco! At first I stayed in an Airbnb with friends, then another Airbnb with another friend, then a hotel with Tim, then a hostel by myself, then another TWO Airbnbs with Tim… this is what happens when you don’t plan in advance and travel in busy season!
To keep it a bit more straightforward, I am not going to recommend the first Airbnb - although it was great for a large group of us, it was quite far out of the way and we would have to Uber everywhere.
Airbnb
Cost per night: AUD$48/USD$31.90
House type: 2 bedroom apartment (double beds)
Listing: https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/22885714?source_impression_id=p3_1725340423_P3esTE4ojzNbe80M
This Airbnb is in a great location - less than a 10 minute walk from the main square, Plaza de Armas, and a lot of cafes/restaurants around and a supermarket a few minutes walk away.
The Airbnb has a lot of character, and has a lovely large sunroom to chill in! The downside was how cold it got at night - very common for Airbnbs in Cusco at that time of year. We rugged up with plenty of layers, but at least the beds were cozy and warm.
Nissi Wasi Hostal
Cost per night: AUD$33/USD$22
Room type: Private room, two double beds, private bathroom
Website: https://www.hostelworld.com/st/hostels/p/321842/nissi-wasi-hostal/
I stayed here after returning from Agua Calientes at the end of the Salkantay trek. Tim wasn’t due back from his hike until the next day, and as I arrived late, I wanted somewhere close to the bus terminal and the tour office where my bag was stored.
It was good for one night - super quiet, late check in and breakfast included in the morning (which wasn’t great, just bread and local cheese, but it was something!).
Las Quenas Hotel
Cost per night: Between AUD$38/USD$25.60 to AUD$45/USD$30.33 (each time we booked on Booking.com there was a different deal)
Room type: Standard double room
Website: https://www.lasquenas.com/
This was a very convenient and affordable hotel, just out of Cusco town centre - it took us about 20 minutes to walk to Plaza de Armas, or just 10 minutes to walk to the San Pedro Central Markets.
They have luggage storage so if you are planning on doing a multi-day hike, they are happy to look after your bags. They also had a decent buffet breakfast, one of the better ones we had in Peru!
Airbnb
Cost per night: AUD$43.50/USD$29.30
House type: 2 bedroom apartment (double beds)
Listing: https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/41241499?source_impression_id=p3_1725341423_P3HaV1_s-VMy6j5Q
This was a conveniently located Airbnb, just a 17 minute walk from Plaza de Armas. It was modern and well kept, with a large lounge/kitchen area, a perfect place to recharge after our hikes. The shower was also of a higher standard than most you'll find in Peru, as it was powerful and hot (and didn't give you electric shocks!).
It was a little hard to find, as it’s not listed properly on Google Maps, so I had to ask some local neighbours down the road for help finding the place.
Airbnb
Cost per night: AUD$57.50/USD$38.80
House type: 2 bedroom apartment (1x queen bed, 1x king bed)
Despite this Airbnb being a bit further out (23-min walk to Plaza de Armas), it was definitely the nicest Airbnb we stayed in. The bed in the master bedroom was HUGE, and the furnishings and artwork made the place feel vibrant. The host was lovely, she gave us freshly baked bread and snacks - she went above and beyond!
The one downside, was this WAS a shower that gave you little electric shocks if you tried to touch the metal part of the handle whilst the shower was running. Not enough to cause any harm, but enough to give you a little jump-scare. This isn't abnormal in Peru we found however!
Where I ate:
Given we spent so much time in Airbnbs, we cooked a lot, but here are my top picks from when I did dine out!
San Pedro Central Market
What I ate: Lomo Saltado (a classic Peruvian dish of rice, fries, and stir-fried beef, capsicums and onion)
What I drank: Inca Kola (also a classic Peruvian drink, like creaming soda)
What I spent: AUD$3.90/USD$2.10
If you want to do as the locals do, head down to the food hall at the San Pedro Markets. You will be hard pressed to find a meal over AUD $3.90 here (10 Peruvian Soles). They all offer more or less the same meals, so we chose one that had more locals than tourists ordering from here, and it was delicious!
Cercanía Pan y Café
What I ate: Veggie Bagel
What I drank: Flat White
What I spent: AUD$11.30/USD$7.60
A little taste of Melbourne in Cusco! This bakery and cafe makes incredible bread, and the best coffee I had in Cusco. It’s a very small cafe, but they also have a large selection of Artisan Breads you can purchase to go - we also got a baguette for AUD$3.90/USD$2.10 that we took back to the Airbnb to share with our friends.
Taste of India
What I ate: Paneer Tikka Masala, Samosas (shared between 2)
What I drank: Bottle of red wine (shared between 3)
What I spent: AUD$19.75/USD$13.30
11 of us descended on Taste of India, that we booked that afternoon - and lucky we had booked, as it was a full restaurant once we got there! Despite the busy evening for the staff, they did a great job of hosting us. Our food was rich with flavour and the drinks went down a treat!
Cervecería Del Valle Sagrado
What I ate: 32-wing platter, split between 2
What I drank: Pisco Sour
What I spent: AUD$27.40/USD$18.50
We visited here with a group of friends, and there was live music playing - it was a good vibe. The wings were tasty but the portions were massive - we ended up sharing them with our friends as well! It is a great location, close to Plaza de Armas, so it was an easy meeting point when everyone was staying in different corners of the city.
Parada Vegana Restaurant
What I ate: Falafel bowl
What I drank: Detox green juice
What I spent: AUD$15/USD$10.10
This vegan restaurant was a recommendation of Tim's, who had eaten there two days prior. Unfortunately, within those two days they changed the menu and increased the prices, but it was still decent-priced (for Cusco!).
Because all the staff were getting used to the new menu, the service was slower than usual which they apologised for - this didn’t bother us as we weren’t in a rush, but there were a few frustrated tables! The wait was worth it though, it was a tasty and healthy meal - much needed after far too many cheat days.
Ceviche Seafood Kitchen
What I ate: Ceviche Barrio
What I drank: Split a bottle of white wine between 4
What I spent: AUD$30/USD$20.20
This was definitely the fanciest and the most touristy place I ate at, but given it was the last meal shared with friends I had made on the Salkantay trek, we decided to treat ourselves to some good ceviche. Ceviche is extremely popular in Peru, as it’s one of their national dishes, but this place was worth the hype - the fish tasted so fresh and delicious, and worth the hype.
What I Did:
Cooking Class
Cost: AUD$85/USD$57.30
Tim surprised me with a cooking class he booked through Airbnb, and it was a great experience! First we shopped at the San Pedro Central Markets for our ingredients whilst our guide explained to us what some of the more exotic foods were and how they were used. After that, we went to the studio and got cooking!
After our first step, making the all-important Peruvian cocktail Pisco Sour, we got onto the food. The starter was Nikkei Style Tiradito, Sashimi style fish marinated in a Japanese/Peruvian ponzu, avocados and cushuros, followed by our main of Quinoa crusted alpaca tenderloin with roasted tubers and Andean smoked chimichurri (and yes, the Alpaca I hate to say was SO DELICIOUS). For dessert we prepared a parfait of exotic fruits.
Each course was incredible, and we had the best time - we ended up going out for drinks with our chef and our fellow students after!
Souvenir Shopping at San Pedro Markets
I have mentioned San Pedro Markets a couple of times in this post already, and that’s because they really are a must do when in Cusco! As well as shopping for produce or eating at one of the dozens of food stalls, it’s also a perfect and inexpensive place to shop for souvenirs. They have so much variety - from wool jumpers to hats to alpaca toys, there really is something for everyone.
Get a Massage - literally anywhere!
There are SO many massage places in Cusco, and they are ridiculously cheap. You can also barter with them, telling them if you saw a promotion from another place for a cheaper amount - they will generally price match.
I had about 5 massages at different places - I paid around AUD$29/USD$19.50 for a 1-hour Swedish massage at each place. Another popular option is the Inca Massage - I didn’t do this one as it sounded a bit too intense for me, but if you like a strong massage, do as the locals do and try this one out!
Hike the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu, via Humantay Lake
Cost: AUD$490/USD$330 incl. train ride back
This was one of the best hikes I did in South America. After doing so many multi-day hikes self guided, it was so nice to join a group and a guide to undertake this trek. Not having to set up a tent each night, having all my meals cooked for me, not needing to lug my huge pack around - it was bliss! Also I met so many incredible people, and grew close bonds over the 5 days.
There are several tour operators that guide this trek, but I highly recommend Machu Picchu Reservations. They were on the cheaper end, but did not lack in quality. Read more about my hike here.
Hike the Ausangate Trek via Rainbow Mountain
Cost: broken down in my Ausangate Trek post
This 5-day hike was a TOUGH one, and it was back to the heavy backpack and completely self-guided again. It was also probably the most beautiful hike I did in Peru, and worth all the blood, sweat and tears. Read more about my experience hiking the Ausangate Trek here.
Top Tips:
When to go:
Dry season runs from June – September, and although there is much less rain, it gets really cold at night - expect to be wearing shorts and t-shirts in the day only for it to drop below 5 degrees Celsius once the sun sets!
Acclimatisation:
I had already spent the last month in Huaraz which is at a similar elevation, so I was already acclimatised, but I have experienced altitude sickness before and have seen so many people suffer from it in different forms, whether it be headaches, nausea, feeling faint, or if you are really unlucky - all of the above. It doesn’t matter how fit you are, it can affect anyone.
Getting there/around:
We flew into Cusco, which is the fastest option. On the way out, because we booked so last minute (as in, two days prior to leaving) the flights were really expensive so we decided to take the cheaper but much longer bus, which took us 22 hours. I'm not sure if I would recommend that option, it was nowhere near as comfortable as some of the other bus rides we have taken in South America with lie-flat beds!
Another popular option is the PeruHop bus. This hop-on/hop-off bus will take you from Cusco to Puno, which from there you can explore Lake Titicaca. We were short on time so we skipped this area, but a lot of people I met on the Salkantay did this and loved their experience!
In terms of getting around, Cusco is a pretty walkable city, and there is also Uber here which is extremely cheap. If you want to do some of the day trips out to Rainbow Mountain, Humantay Lake or the Maras Salt Mines, a tour is the cheapest option. If there are a few of you, taxis are pretty affordable once you split the cost.
If you are wanting to visit Machu Picchu independently (not on a hike) I would recommend catching the train for the fastest option.
Money:
It’s important to have cash on you, as some smaller places won’t accept card, especially if you are going out of Cusco and exploring Sacred Valley or Agua Calientes (the base of Macchu Pichu). The MultiRed ATMS (the ATM for Banco de la Nacion) won’t charge you any fees, so if your bank card also doesn’t charge fees (I use Wise and UP Bank from Australia), these are your best option. Otherwise, there are a few Western Unions you can use to get cash out.
Tipping at restaurants (mainly the touristy ones) is customary, so budget for an extra 10% on top of the bill. It’s preferred to tip with cash.
Machu Picchu:
If going to Machu Pichu, I would highly recommend the Salkantay hike there. However, if you don’t have the time, the train is the fastest option - you need to book in advance though. I hiked the Salkantay there, and then caught the train back. I made the mistake of upgrading to the Panoramic window like I had seen on Instagram and all over magazine advertising - and then my train got delayed almost 2 hours, meaning it was sunset by the time the train departed. So, there was nothing to see out of my panoramic windows after the first 10 minutes!
I would also recommend staying the night in Agua Calientes, and purchasing an early morning entry ticket to Machu Picchu. If you get into the grounds before 9am it’s not too crowded. The earliest entry is 6am, but be prepared to potentially wait an hour or so for the early morning fog to lift before you see the magnificent ruins. And yes, even despite how touristy it is, it is still one of the most magical views I have seen!
Prices were what I paid at the time in 2024, please check updated prices when travel planning!
1st Airbnb
San Pedro Markets
Where I drank:
Aura Restobar
What I drank: A glass of Carmenere (red wine)
What I spent: AUD$8.60/USD$5.80
This is a stunning rooftop bar, a perfect spot for watching the sunset over the city! The also serve food including breakfast, and have an extensive cocktail list.
Los Perros
What I drank: Pisco Sours (2-4-1 deal, yes I drank both - both times!)
What I spent: AUD$9.80/USD$6.60
As I just mentioned, I ended up here twice, with two different groups of friends!
It’s a very popular cozy cocktail bar, with good music (although quite loud so not the best place to have good chats!). The owners are lovely, and the happy hour deals are great - it’s 2-4-1 until 8pm.
Café Dwasi Peruvian Coffee
What I drank: A Chasqui
What I spent:AUD$5.80/USD$3.90
A Chasqui is a creation of drip coffee, pisco and vanilla, and it is an absolutely glorious creation. The cafe also has a large range of food and other drinks, but I would 100% go back just to taste this coffee again!
Cercanía Pan y Café
Salkantay to Machu Picchu
Ausangate Trek
We ended up staying in Cusco about a month in total, with a couple of treks in between - I completed the Salkantay, whilst Tim completed the Choquequirao, and then we both completed the strenuous but incredible Ausangate Trek.
Read below to discover more about my Cusco experience!
2nd Airbnb
3rd Airbnb
Ceviche Seafood Kitchen
Aura Restobar rooftop views
