Hiking Guide: Paso Desolación, Petrohué
HIKING
Paso Desolación is a must-do hike for anyone visiting Puerto Varas – it was one of my highlights of my time there, and one of my favourite day hikes in Chilean Patagonia!
We went in May 2024, so half of the hike was covered in at least a foot of snow. It made the hike even more stunning! This 7-hour hike is moderately challenging, especially in the snow, but you are rewarded with beautiful views of the Andes, Lake Todos los Santos, and the main highlight - Orsono Volcano.
How to get there:
The hike begins near the village of Petrohué. I would highly recommend hiring a car during your stay in Puerto Varas, as there are so many places and sights to explore around the area including the Orsono Volcano and the Petrohué waterfalls - both you can read about in my Puerto Varas post.
The drive from Puerto Varas to Petrohué takes around an hour, along the scenic Route 225. You can do this easily as a day trip, but there are also plenty of accommodation options along the way if you want to spend longer exploring.
You can also catch a bus, but at time of writing there is only one service in the morning at 6:52am that takes two hours. You will need to spend the night in Petrohué, as the return bus departs at 8:30am.
The Hike:
The first part of the hike takes you through lush forests of coigüe and lenga trees, typical of the Valdivian temperate rainforest. As you continue along the trail, the path starts to ascend gradually through the dense forest. The trail here is well-defined but can be muddy, especially after rain. This section of the trail is relatively easy, with a gentle incline that allows you to enjoy the tranquility of the forest.
After the forest, the trail begins to open up, offering the first glimpses of Osorno Volcano. The vegetation becomes sparser, and you'll start to see more open landscapes with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The trail becomes steeper at this point, and the terrain can be rocky. As you ascend further, the views of Lake Todos los Santos become increasingly spectacular. This glacial lake, with its emerald-green waters, is surrounded by rugged mountains and thick forests. The sight of the lake from higher elevations is one of the highlights of the hike.
The Top:
We encountered about a foot of snow at the top of the pass, and we continued along to the “refugio” about an hour in (really, it was a run down wooden shack). Due to it being a popular destination for snow-shoers at this time of year, we could follow along their tracks to keep us on the right path and to stop us from being knee deep in snow.
The views from the top of Paso Desolación offer sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and landscapes. On clear days, you can see as far as the Reloncaví Estuary and the Calbuco Volcano. We stopped at the refugio to cook our lunch, as this provided some shelter from the high winds, then returned the way we came back to Petrohué.
Top Tips:
The weather in Patagonia can be unpredictable, so it's essential to be prepared for sudden changes. Dress in layers, bring a waterproof jacket, and carry a hat and gloves, even in the summer months. When we climbed in May I was wearing a tank top down the bottom, and a polar fleece AND down jacket up the top!
There wasn’t anywhere up the top to refill water, unless you melted the snow! So bring enough with you for the day.
If I’d had more time, I would have loved to do a boat tour of Lake Todos los Santos which takes about 45 minutes. Factor this in to your day if you want to explore the landscape via the water!
There are a couple of places to buy lunch in Petrohué, but I would recommend bringing a packed lunch from Puerto Varas to enjoy up the top of Paso Desolación.
