Perito Moreno Glacier: Self-Guided
I'll come out and say it straight - a trip to Patagonia is not complete without a visit to Perito Moreno Glacier.
And to think, we almost skipped it entirely!
We came to El Calafate twice on our trip – the first time as a stop off between Puerto Natales after completing the O Circuit in Torres del Paine, and then again following 11 days in El Chalten as we weren’t able to get an earlier bus.
The first time we came, we couldn't get a car hire last minute for a decent price, and we had just come off the O-Trek where we say the astoundingly massive Grey Glacier and thought: "do we really need to pay a ton of money to see another glacier when we just saw one last week?".
The answer, friends, was yes. Yes we did.
Luckily despite us giving up hopes of visiting Perito Moreno Glacier, we found ourselves back in El Calafate again and this time, we were determined to see it.
It was later in April when we returned, so we managed to find hire car for a much more palatable cost than two weeks earlier. Tours were also at least AUD$100, and whilst they are great for solo travelers or those not confident driving in Argentina, between the two of us we preferred to hire a car and do it ourselves. This gave us flexibility but also the chance to go exploring in other areas whilst we had the car.
The Details:
We left El Calafate at about 7:15am, and arrived at the entrance right at opening time at 9:00am - but not without a stop off at La Pierdra Mirador (pictured above) along the way to catch the final glimpses of the soft pink sunrise.
After paying the entrance fee of AUD$16.80/USD$11.20 we continued for another 45 minutes down a scenic road to reach the entrance of the Perito Moreno Glacier walkways.
Because we got there so early, there were only a handful of other cars there and a couple of small tour vans. For about the first hour, I don't think I crossed paths with more than about 8 people!
There are several trails to choose from, all connecting to each other and offering 4.7km of walkways in total. We did each trail, with each one providing different viewpoints of not only the glacier but the surrounding area which is absolutely breathtaking.
I wasn't sure how much I would enjoy the glacier, seeing is it was a lot more "touristy" than the adventures we had been having so far in Patagonia - but I loved it. It never felt too crowded, even when we left at midday and the parking lot was full. Even though not every trail was wheelchair accessible, there were plenty of viewpoints that people of all abilities could enjoy. I think the national park did a really outstanding job in their investment of the walkways, and it was great to see elderly, young children and people with disabilities being able to enjoy the beauty of the glacier.
Planning Tips:
What We Spent:
*Note, due to Argentina's inflation mess (for lack of a better word) these prices are in AUD/USD and are correct as at April 2024. For more on Money in Argentina, visit this post:
Rental Car: AUD$54/USD$36
Petrol: approx. AUD$25/USD$16.70
National Park Entrance: AUD$16.80/USD$11.20
Getting There:
There are three options: rental car (recommended), group tour or bus.
Tour: There are lot's of tour companies to choose from, ranging drastically in price. The main street in El Calafate is lined with tour operators, however if you want to pre-book before your travels, I recommend going through Get Your Guide. They are a wholesaler for activities across the globe, and you can view other peoples reviews and ratings easily before choosing your ideal tour.
Bus:
Caltur Bus runs a twice-daily bus to Perito Moreno Glacier. You can depart at either 9:00am or 1:00pm, and the return bus is 6-hours later.
This is a good option if you are doing any additional tours like a boat cruise or kayaking, but if you are just doing the walkways, this is a very long time!
The bus costs around AUD$37.50/USD$25. You can't purchase these tickets on the website, however you can WhatsApp them or book at the bus station in El Calafate, or at one of the tourist offices.
Chalten Travel also offers a daily bus, however at time of writing their website is down. Once again, you can book these tickets at the bus station in El Calafate, or at one of the tourist offices.
Note: There is also a town in Argentina called Perito Moreno. Make sure you search for Perito Moreno Glacier if Googling bus options!
Car:
As mentioned, this is my recommended option if there is more than one of you to split the car hire cost. In peak season and on weekends you will want to book this a couple of weeks in advance to get a good deal and a reasonable sized car.
The journey is 80km each way and takes about an hour to reach the national park entrance, and another 45 minutes to reach the walkways.
Driving in Argentina can be quite an experience - no-one seems to follow speed limits, and that's if you can even work out what the speed limit is meant to be! So don't be surprised by locals overtaking you at 140km an hour plus on the highway, but I would stick to a much safer speed limit, especially given the amount of wildlife in the area (Guanaco's being the most common we saw on that drive in particular!).
There are plenty of car hire companies to choose from, and not a far walk from the main shopping strip. We ended up going with Hertz as they were the cheapest. Later we found out they have a monopoly on the rental car industry in Argentina due to their massive fleet and known name, so they often will be the cheapest option.
One of the most fascinating sights (and sounds!) was the icicles breaking off the glaciers edge into the water below. That's what kept us there for hours - the walks only took about an hour in total, but hearing the thunderous crash of the ice hitting the water, followed by the sight of smokes of powder emerging was slightly addictive in a way!
There is also a restaurant, souvenir shop and bathrooms at the top. We bought our lunch with us, so ate it on one of the many benches overlooking the glacier.
As I mentioned, by midday the carpark was full. Given we were visiting in April, I can only imagine how much busier it would be in peak season (Dec-Feb)! There is overflow carparking further down the hill, but be prepared to walk that extra km or so.
The glacier surpassed my expectations, and I am SO glad we didn't end up skipping it!
Additional Activities:
There are multiple other activities you can do at Perito Moreno Glacier - unfortunately, being budget travelers meant that we just stuck to the walkways. The activities here are not cheap!! If I came back in warmer weather and deeper pockets though, sign me up for the kayaking!
Kayaking:
A kayaking tour allows you to get up close to the glacier balconies and floating icebergs in the protected waters of Los Glaciares National Park.
Most operators offer the tour from November to April, when the weather isn't so freezing. Even though no matter what time of year it will be fresh, they provide the full kits - waterproof dry suit, thermal suit, lifejackets etc. There are only up to 16 people (some operators have up to 20 people) on the tour so book in advance.
Mil Outdoor operate one of the longer seasons, from August until end of May. It costs approximately AUD$333/USD$222 for a 1.5 hour kayak, excluding transfers from El Calafate.
Boat Cruise:
This is a very popular excursion, with multiple options to choose from depending on the experience you want to have.
Patagonia Chic offer a 1-hour boat cruise in front of the north face of the glacier, getting to go up closer to the glacier wall than you would on the walkways. This is ideal if you are short on time and budget. They offer a great off-peak deal at AUD$62.50/USD$42 (in winter months), with the price going up to AUD$103/USD$68 in peak season.
Note, they operate daily during summer/spring/autumn and school holidays, however every second day during the rest of winter.
They also offer a "Gourmet Glaciers Experience", which is a full day cruise taking you to three glaciers - Upsala, Spegazzini and Perito Moreno. You also have the option to disembark in the forest inside Spegazzini Channel to do a short nature walk, and also includes a stop to the main walkways around Perito Moreno.
This experience comes at an eye-watering price tag - the tour (without transfers) including a gourmet lunch box you are looking at AUD$448/USD$299 in peak season. An upgrade to a 5 course lunch (very limited capacity) is an additional AUD$295 /USD$196, including alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverages.
Ice Trekking:
If you are looking for a once-in-a-lifetime experience activity in Patagonia, trekking on top of Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the most popular options. People who have done this activity highly rate it, and say it was worth every penny. As I had only just completed the Huemul Trek less than two weeks prior (which included walking on a glacier, terrified I was going to fall down a crevasse) I felt I didn't need to rush back onto a glacier any time soon - even if this one does come with certified guides!
There are two options available, through Heilo y Aventura - the only tour company that operates these tours. All other companies/agencies act as third-party providers for these guys.
Minitrekking
Time: 10 hours, including 1 hour on the ice
Difficulty: Moderate
Season: July 15th to May 31st
Cost: $AUD347/USD$231
Big Ice
Time: 12 hours, including 3 hours on the ice
Difficulty: Hard
Season: September 15th to April 30th
Cost: $AUD555/USD$370
Both tours have the option of adding return transfers from El Calafate, and exclude lunch - you need to bring this with you. Please note, the Big Ice you need to be between 18 and 50 years old to complete, no matter your fitness level - they are strict on this unfortunately!
Top Tips for Visiting Perito Moreno Glacier:
Dress warmly, no matter what time of year - pack a beanie, gloves, warm jacket and sunglasses.
Bring your own lunch, as the restaurants here gets packed and are rather expensive.
Come in the morning for less crowds.
Book your car hire and additional activities in advance.
If you have a few days in El Calafate, excursions can be booked at one of the many tourism offices along the main strip.
